Hitting The Cool Notes

Maybe Ian and June Marks are going to have the last laugh. They own the coolest Yarra Valley vineyard and with all this talk and evidence about global warming, theirs might be one of the last great sites for pinot noir and chardonnay. Cool climate-loving varieties. "We ripen about two to three weeks later than the Yarra Valley floor," says Ian Marks, "and we're more similar to the average Tasmanian vineyard than Victorian." Remembering the first vintage in 1987, he adds that "we now pick a month ...