Wine Lesson 181

Sun Herald

Sunday October 12, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Chardonnay is still worth drinking

While chardonnay may no longer be considered the newest, trendiest variety of white grape, it is still the biggest seller and with good reason. At the top end, Australian chardonnay has never tasted better and there are plenty of good budget ones around as well. Winemaking styles have changed over the past decade and modern chardonnay has evolved into a leaner and more elegant style. Those imbalanced oaky, buttery and canned-pineapple characters are largely a thing of the past. The new breed of chardies is lively and fresh with appealing acidity and subtle fruit. Fashion often follows the "everything old is new again" credo, so the ABC (anything but chardonnay) moniker of today may very well become ABSB (anything but sauvignon blanc) tomorrow.

Shingleback Red Knot Chardonnay 2006, $14

The emphasis of this McLaren Vale chardy is on fruit rather than oak. It is pure and fresh with lots of flavour, if slightly short. Match it with fish and chips.

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2006, $19

Sourced primarily from the Adelaide Hills, this elegant wine has notes of nectarine and white peach that lead onto a complex creamy palate. Serve it with roast chicken.

Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, $35

There are some excellent single-vineyard chardies, like this stunning example, which has flavour, balance, complexity and finesse. Try it with grilled crayfish.

© 2008 Sun Herald

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