Wine Lesson 130

The Sunday Age

Sunday July 29, 2007

Sally Gudgeon

Chardonnay is not passe

Chardonnay is a victim of its own success. It has become fashionable to knock the world's most popular white grape. It grows in myriad climates and locations, including France, England, California, Chile, India, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia. In Burgundy, France - its spiritual homeland - it produces some of the world's most exquisite and expensive wines: the grand crus from Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne and Meursault. Wines from Chablis, Saint-Veran and Pouilly-Fuisse are more affordable. Not only is chardonnay used in still wines, it is an important component of sparkling wines from Champagne, Australia and New Zealand. So, before you join the ABC (anything but chardonnay) ranks, try some good ones. -- Sally Gudgeon

Gilbert Picq Chablis 2005, $34

Chablis is the northernmost appellation in Burgundy. Chardonnay from this region tends to be lean and fresh. This Chablis is tight and minerally, making it perfect with shellfish and seafood.

Donnafugata La Fuga Chardonnay 2006, $45

These chardonnay grapes from Sicily are often the first to be picked in the Northern Hemisphere. Tropical-fruit notes lead onto a vibrant textured palate. Serve it

with Moroccan chicken.

Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, $45

This is a classic, cool-climate chardonnay. Aromas of white peach, figs and nuts lead onto a lean palate, with flinty minerality the keynote. Try it with pork cutlets.

© 2007 The Sunday Age

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