Sense Of Place

The Age

Saturday April 14, 2007

Jane Faulkner

In the past few years, Australian chardonnay lovers (contrary to some reports, there are plenty of us out there) have been rejoicing and drinking because, stylistically, there are more outstanding examples being produced. The benchmark is much higher these days. For Voyager Estate's winemaker, Cliff Royle, making wines that express varietal character, including the place where the vines are grown. And he's stoked about the 2005 chardonnay - classic Margaret River.

"The '05 is the best chardonnay we've made," says Royle matter-of-factly. "It's a combination of all the things I like: the slightly fruitier vintage from here but as with the '04, there's all that structure." While Royle looks to Burgundy for inspiration, citing Domaine Leflaive as the pinnacle for whites, he's making Margaret River wines and wants to express that region elegantly but with some pizzazz. It's why the Parker fixation (American wine writer Robert Parker's predilection for big reds that is, overripe, jammy fruit matched to absurdly high alcohol levels) has created a wine "style" and that annoys the hell out of this Australian.

"Some people don't really understand that if you push grapes to that level of ripeness you end up with stewed, raisiny fruit, which is not representative of the variety and in the long term, it's a disservice. I don't make wines like that and I don't want too because if you can't work out where the wine is from that's a worry," he says. "And wine styles that aren't varietal, surely that's annoying to great wine countries? The French, Italians and the Spanish make wine to consume with food not just to fulfil the Parker generation." That food and wine combo was what lured Royle in to the wine game. The Frankston lad who grew up on meat and three veg just clicked when exposed to that European sensibility.

He says the "sugar-addicted" Americans don't appreciate Margaret River cabernet sauvignon, although that doesn't bother him in the slightest. However, a criticism that an eucalypt note has appeared in cabernet would be accepted. It's something he doesn't like either. The oil is so pervasive that it sticks to the berries and so, in 2000, the blue gums surrounding the vineyard were removed. Since the '01 vintage that character has disappeared from the wine.

Last week's column was by

Ralph Kyte-PowellVOYAGER ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2005 $42

It starts with an intricate nose of tangerine peel, some delicate white stone and citrus fruits, leesy notes, too, that all follow through on the palate with good attack. Wonderful texture and creaminess on the palate but matched with purity of flavour from the pristine fruit. Amazing depth and length. In a word, stunning.VOYAGER ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON MERLOT 2003 $45

Deep, rich intense fresh cassis, a floral aspect, too, with some creamy notes yet savoury underneath, superbly balanced with the oak beautifully integrated. Builds on the palate, stunning structure and length. Somewhat closed, so the patient will be rewarded, otherwise a decent decant please.VOYAGER ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON 2006 $24

There are bound to be more warm days and nights ahead so this wine will go down a treat. Refreshing and clean with star fruit on the palate and vibrant tropical fruit on the nose but not overt, as it's bound by a distinct lemony line and touch of hay from the semillon, which also lifts the wine, adding complexity.

© 2007 The Age

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